Another casualty of our times: the local Denny’s has shut its doors. Businesses come and go in our capitalist society, the force of creative destruction rearranging the means of production in order to pump out new and exciting forms of merchandise. The nutrient-rich corpse of one restaurant feeds the ghouls of shiny new franchises. This is to be expected, not mourned. With bated breath the economists assure us that this life cycle is natural, necessary even. Theory be damned. The local Denny’s was an institution.
It sat right off of Highway 101, which runs through town and feeds the economy, infusing pockets with income and helping keep the lights on. There used to be luscious pear orchards that ran along the highway and kept a seasonal workforce employed. Those orchards are gone too, and the Denny’s sat across the street from the Pear Tree Center, where there are no more pear trees to be found. At this little corner small-town life went on for decades, bringing in crowds of truckers, local yahoos, and riff raff from the highway.
No more. Denny’s has closed up shop. Despite not having a stellar culinary reputation, everybody seemed to go there. The fluffy stacks of pancakes topped with obscene amounts of butter served via a scoop were a sensation, even if there was so much butter that a ball of dairy remained on the plate long after the pancakes were devoured. Who didn’t enjoy a nice Grand Slam on a hungover Sunday morning, soaking up the remains of a rancid stomach with unhealthy amounts of sausage? It was the place to go when nobody could agree on where to eat, the go to, the old stand by. “Screw it, let’s go to Denny’s,” we would say after an hour of arguing.
I’ve been going to this particular Denny’s for thirty years. The food, while cycling through an array of bad choices, remained largely the same. Eggs, pancakes, syrup, ham, hash browns, cheese, gravy. Mix it up in some combination and call it food. Add a never ending cup of coffee, and life is good. There always seemed to be elderly people eating their senior meals, which I was jealous I could never order. There was always some kid standing up in the booth and looking out at the other patrons. An old wooden sign pointed out how far away we were from interesting places, measuring the distance in relevance to our own local obscurity.
When I was a child, Denny’s was always a treat for us, a big outing. It was an event with everybody getting their fill. It meant payday and good times for a few days. It meant family, and big stacks of fluffy happiness, a real restaurant to practice our table manners, not the fast food fix we were used to for celebrations. The adults would slurp down their coffee and I would wait, surveilling the neighboring table’s pancakes while I waited on my own. Then the moment when the server pushed that plate of magical pancakes, mandatory butter sphere, and cozy pile of sausages or linear arrangements of bacon. Conversation would flow in the dark chasm of history before cell phones, and I would look back and forth at the adults, wondering at the mystery of middle age.
As a young adult, Denny’s played a different role in my life. Midnight games of Magic the Gathering and a mint chocolate chip milkshake, existential debates served with a side of fries, staring out the window and asking yourself: why am I at Denny’s at three a.m.? Listening to the hum of the highway and wondering where all these people in Denny’s came from, their backstories, it was enough to keep a person coming back for more. That and the prospect of eating an entire barnyard on a platter. The claw machine was my eternal enemy, voraciously draining my wallet of small bills and my pockets of change. A mummy-themed Kermit the Frog cost me ten dollars in quarters, and I went home without the cherished fuzzball, my friends giving me the “I told you so” when I complained of the highway robbery. I went there with different groups of friends, getting to know the Denny’s staff, a colorful crew of solid folks.
As a young father, Denny’s was my go-to on Sunday morning when my wife was working and I was alone with my youngster. We would split a Cajun Omelette and the servers would chat it up with him as we whiled away the hours until Mom got off work. As he got older he became the child standing on the seat, staring into the other booths, and I imagine dreams of pancakes running through his mind.
I went to Denny’s less and less over the years as the cost of going out to a restaurant exploded due to my growing family, but it still held a special place for me, a cozy warm pancake on the complicated Grand Slam that is Ukiah.
It was more than a franchise.
Denny’s closed abruptly, to the great shock of Mendocino County. It was the talk of the town and people responded with passion. It marked something bigger than the usual act of creative economic destruction. Social media went into a frenzy, and conversations with locals were laced with sadness. A piece of history was lost, a slice of old Ukiah, the tinkles of spoons on a coffee cup echoing through the void.
Memories tend to stick around in these parts. The ghost of the old Sizzler restaurant rears its head when you ask people of a certain age for directions. It’s by the old Sizzler, the old timers say to the confusion of newcomers. By the concrete block that used to be Wendy’s. Down the street from where the old Safeway was, where I used to buy sodas from the vending machine for a quarter, a block or two from the old Post Office, which stands defunct and empty. My parents told stories of the old smorgasbord that stood where the In N’ Out now stands, in the phantasmal shadow of Masonite, where a generation earned their pay. I drive by Grace Hudson School and think of the Buy Low, Montgomery Ward’s, and Thrifty, cheap ice cream cones, my grandma, and when Santa Clause would visit. I get lost downtown by the courthouse, looking for Wildburger’s and cheap sourdough rolls and the game store where I spent my youth steeped in nerd culture. I rub my eyes and wonder at the spread of dispensaries, which are popping up everywhere.
Ukiah is a town bursting at the seams these days, spilling out from its old city limits into novel and exciting big box frontiers. A new generation is rising, and the town is growing, shedding its old skin, emerging a shiny new organism with new possibilities and new challenges. Perhaps this new generation will build their own stories in this expanding era of Panda Express, Costco, and Chipotle.
Businesses open; businesses close. That’s the story of America. What new wonders will the future bring? The storied mall that I have heard about for the last thirty years? What new shining franchise will emerge from the ashes? As I ponder that mystery and wish the entrepreneurs the best, I still look backward, visions of Denny’s in my mind. I raise a coffee cup to memories and think of days gone by as the time rolls on like sausage links, tenuously connected, ready to be snapped apart by a hungry diner. The building remains, a maple-soaked Ozymandias, a testament to our times.
R.I.P. Denny’s.
Call for Submissions
The ethos of Mendocino County, its grit and beauty and history, is often lost in the stodgy language of newspeak.
To capture the essence of our vast vistas, MendoFever will be featuring a new section we’re calling “MendoLit” that will showcase poetry, short stories, flash fiction, and vignettes that put to words that hard to pin down feeling we call home.
We invite all writers, of all ages, of all genres, to submit their work to us at matthewplafever@gmail.com. Please include your name, your piece, preferably an image that relates to your piece, and maybe a description of your creative process.
Great read. Mendo is changing indeed.
Logan Silva is a great writer. Thanks for posting this. Brought back memories to me of Ukiah from over 50 years ago when I first came to Mendocino County.
Good Article. Appetites are a changing. Hopefully this location can find a new business that fulfills the needs of the town. Maybe a black bear?
Now the county can buy to stote filrs in do they say more likebhide a couplebof employees thqt do nothingnin like rest of buildings they buy up that close got a county yard yet none of vehicals are parked there and a city yard at any day week i cod show you at 4 different spots that ask yourself what is city doing in that building no name
Wow…… Your an amazing writer! You put MY thoughts and memories into the words I would’ve expressed myself if I could have. I’m not a good writer lol I did however grow up and Ukiah for 57 years. I just moved last year and I miss it tremendously. I remember the trees I remember the Owl café in Cloverdale. Sizzler Wild burgers the west side store the laundry and the grocery store where the Victorian building is now, 10 ice cream at thrifty, Bi-lo market, The orange across the street from Montgomery, wards, so much oh Rockies pizza! Arctic Circle! Fjords! I could go on and on. Thank you for putting my heart into a story rest in peace even though I hated eating there my kids loved it! The hotel is next, unfortunately I have a feeling
I went to Denny’s all the time. I miss it. All the stores I use to go to has closed down and will be closed down like JCPenney, Ukiah sucks now. It’s not quite the same vibe as I got when I was younger
I guess you only need a sixth grade education to write stories on this site. lol
Really? Think you can do better Karen? At the bottom of the page, Matt invites everyone of all ages to submit their own stories. Challenge accepted? Or do you just “Karen” through life, leaving negative unnecessary comments?
Listen Dearie, the writing on this site is at an 8th grade level at most. Yes, I can do better, much better. And I am not even a great writer. I just happened to graduate high school and can formulate a sentence without making simple grammatical errors.
I’m sure some of us undereducated raised in Ukiah or nearby locals could use your edgamacation and pointers dear. However I’ll leave that for my college professors. You should remember that being kind takes way less energy and causes way less gray hair and wrinkles than being rude. Have the day you deserve! Toodles
Karen if you are feeling froggy then jump. Impress us with your literary skills. From your recent comments on this and other articles on this platform I doubt you could do better. To be honest I’m certain we will be disappointed.
Well well well, looks like we have a Karen bickering about minor things like grammar and punctuations on this article like if you’re an English Professor. If you’re any better I don’t see you posting news articles like this. Why don’t you re-do your K-12 program starting from the bottom and graduate High School more properly. And based on your comments, looks like you’re crying out for a hug, or to get some from your partner who is impotent by looking at your face.
WHAT IS YOUR PROBLEM????!!!
My problem? You’re the one who is getting all butthurt about an article
YOU NEED TO LEAVE ME ALONE!!!!!!!!!!!
Mendo is not as good as it was 20 years ago
Sixth graders are reading Ozymandias nowadays? Impressive.
It was Bi-Lo, not buy low
Thank you, that bugged me too. Lol
Great story. I remember all these places well. You forgot Sambos. My uncle Pete A. had breakfast at Dennt’s every day. He loved all the workers even had his special table. Now we say good by to these places and also my uncle Pete who parted this world.
It’s funny, I think we all have similar memories from Denny’s. It was truly an iconic part of Ukiah’s history. Sadly, nothing exists anymore to replicate that. Shame.
For me, Moons over My Hammy or the meat lover skillet.
Thank you, Matt, for your nostalgic look back at Denny’s and other now bygone places many of us haunted.
I remember when they decided to close one Christmas. The door had never been locked and they had to install its first one.
I enjoyed this piece, Logan. Thank you!
Very nice. I like your style. I must be about your age. I remember eating in Fjords as a kid and all you can eat shrimp at Sizzler. And I got a go cart from Montgomery Wards when I was 7. Five horse power Briggs & Stratton motor. I almost killed myself and my little brother on that thing. And the ice cream cones from Thrifty’s. And Albertsons was next door to the 2nd thrifty’s. I’m born and bread in the Ukiah valley. My mom’s still in the same house her and my dad bought in 1971 on Rd. B in Redwood Valley. I already miss Denny’s horribly.
When my older brother had band in Ukiah we’d always end up at Denny’s after a gig, 2:00 am the place would be filled! 1977
All I expect in Ukiah is downfall. Particularly in the last 10 years everything crumbling. It will be like Detroit or Gary Indiana soon. No jobs, no industry, only a few loaded bay area transplants. Not much else.
Ooof. The Fjords Market reference still hits like a gut punch, further reminding me of the building’s successor “Bagels and Blues.”
Fantastic article, thank you Logan.
Absolutely love this story! I was actually in my junior year at Ukiah High when the restaurant opened its doors.I can remember coming home from school one day shortly after the opening and my dad was waiting for me.He says to me son I think that it’s about time that you got yourself a regular full time job and i said alright then what do you think that I should do?
So we got into the car and he proceeded to drive me down to Denny’s where the then current manager named Jim Sorrenson greeted us and hired me as a dishwasher and i soon afterwards became a cook.I cannot remember filling out a job application because as it turns out Mr Sorrenson and my father who worked for the Ukiah Police department were good friends.
A few weeks later Kenny Foster from Redwood Valley took over the franchise and managerial position and I worked there for several years.I gained a lot of fond memories and colorful stories from my time there.
Not just Denny’s, it’s the whole of East Perkins.
Great column. You took me on a trip down memory lane.
Im so sorry for all who evolved from mendocino county, under served and over rated. No disrespect, but people dont buy pears anymore. If Dennys is your go to, thats really disapointing because its the worst of Mendo. Mendo is one of the largest counties in Cali and has the most unbridled natural frontier adventurous beauty. If you are here for Denny’s maybe you should get off your xbox and ho camping without your phone in the most besutiful and safest county for outdoor camping and nature viewing. If not, maybe ride a bicycle instead of an electric car to get to the next spot. One Love, long live MLK
I’m a little surprised that you did not at least give a plug or honerable mention to stop and buy all of your snacks for the trip at the Groove Temple. (The Ukiah CO-OP)
Don’t forget your regrettably now optional pesky covid mask.
People don’t buy pears? News to me as our ranch has sold them since the turn of the century and still has good contracts today.
Whoa Chris, don’t hate on the Pears or the Pear Sheds, the Thomas’s helped so many young people. Back in my day every kid worked there if you didn’t pack pears you stacked pears, or like me drove forklifts. Mr. Thomas gave young people responsibility, a chance to earn money. You could then go to Denny’s or the Truck Stop, my bros called it the Greasy Skillet. And woo a young girl. Ukiah was way better off when the young people could work all summer and save for College or for school clothes, or like me help feed my family with BBQ. So step off Chris.
Earlyjim
Shoot Chris that was not meant for you it was for the name less Bottom Line dude
Earlyjim
Early I think I worked with you in the ice house one summer, in 1994. Building stacks of pallets with foam and tarps. In the wind tunnels. Brother Don McCallum was our boss. He is a good guy. He is still friends with me and my family. But he was a slave driver back then. I worked in the sheds 6 summers in a row. McKlusky and ice house and forklift.
I’ve been a fan of the Denny’s Superbird sandwich for four, maybe five, decades. I’ve had them all over, with foil sheets left them, and later white paper meat wrap. No extra charge, and always forgiven. But over my six years here in Ukiah, I watched the Denny’s quality sink ever lower. Kicking drug users out of the bathrooms became a routine waitress job duty. My last visit was just a few weeks before it closed, and service had hit rock-bottom. There were three employees working, and my waitress was stoned into ineffectiveness, taking and confirming my order five times. Maybe it was low pay, or the sketchy employee pool. Maybe COVID mortally wounded its profitability. But I wasn’t going back again, finally.
Awesome, loved the story brought back my memories of Dennys and all the old surrounding areas. Nice peice.?
I find this article is incredibly well written, historically accurate and those critics below need something else to complain about.
I’ve lived here for 56 years, and moved from the Los Angeles area to Redwood Valley, the same year that the “Reverend” Jim Jones was building The People’s Temple. No, not a member, just someone that remembers the armed guards and the buses and noise.
I’m saddened that so many historical businesses are gone and forgotten!
Denny’s restaurant is just one of the many eateries that are gone.
Fjords was a beloved place for an inexpensive and affordable family meal. The parking lot was full of traveler buses and hungry customers. And it had the typical “gift shop”, for tourists to enjoy!
The Snow White burger joint across from the Fairgrounds had the best donuts ever! Foster’s Freeze was at the south end of town, Mr. Frosty (I might have the wrong name; they had the big ice cream cone sign) Henne’s homemade candy and ice cream, the Black Bart Room in the old Palace Hotel, the Manor Inn and Restaurant (I was a cocktail waitress at both), all long gone and replaced by McDonalds or other “fast food” chains.
Thank you to this illustrious writer for the trip down memory lane, I just became a 17 year old at the Fairgrounds races, heading to Denny’s for a chocolate shake and fries afterwards.
Please continue writing!
Great writing. Every word. Spent time in that Dennys over years and I don’t get to Ukiah that often so I didn’t know it has closed.
In the 14 years I’ve lived in Mendocino I’ve seen many things come and go and sadly now it’s mostly going.